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TIPS: Simple things I have learned

Saturday, September 10th, 2005

This is a reprint from an article I wrote for Stone Business Magazine

Simple Things I Have Learned

“Mark, There is more than one way to skin at cat” My grandfather used to tell me that on a regular basis. I will tell you, the following article is along those lines. The following tips are simple things we have figured out over the years that have made slab fabrication easier for our shop.

RODDING

We rod every under-mount sink we process. Back in the day, we would put a tuck-point blade on a grinder, cut a 1/4” groove in the back of the slab and drop in a long chunk of all-thread. This is a common effective and slow technique.

Four years ago we started rodding with fish tape. What is fish tape? It is that stuff electricians use to pull wire through conduit.

(insert photo 1)

When we rod with fish tape we cut 2 slots in the front and 2 slots in the back. We cut the fish tape to the correct size, fill the slot with flowing epoxy, insert the strips of fish tape and wait for it to cure. (if we are in a hurry, we use express epoxy which cures in minutes instead of hours)

(insert photo 2)

There are many advantages to fish tape.

- It is much less expensive than all-thread. $50 for around 250’ lf

- It comes in 250’ rolls making it easy to store.

- You can bend it around the 45 degree sink bump outs that are so common these days.

- It can be cut to any length you need..we even use it on veins that scare us. We cut the stuff into 4” strips and make frankenstein stiches across the veins.

- It is twice as fast to rod with fish tape

This method works. We have had very little breakage since switching to this system.

LIFTING AND MOVING 3CM SLAB

“ARGH! That island weighs over 900lbs!”

In our industry the most common injury is probably back related. We have come up with some simple ways to move heavy stone with out winding up in the chiropractors office.

We started using trailers to take big finished kitchens to the job site. The use of the trailer keeps the large component close to the ground. Who wants to lift a 900lbs island off the back of a box van or a pick up?

(insert photo 3)

We get on guy on each end of the component with standard lifters and slide the part halfway off the trailer. We then get a guy on each side with those hoopty drywall lifters. Yes, those silly looking things work great!

(insert photo 4)

We then transfer the component to a dolly and roll it into the house. We use the same tools to go up stairs.

DUST FREE FABRICATION

OSHA, EPA, silicosis, the mess, and an unprofessional looking operation are the main reasons to consider going dust free. Check the prices on dust collection equipment, if that does not motivate you, OSHA will.

We went dust-free when we moved to our new shop a year ago. All my guys moaned and whined. I would catch them dragging pieces outside so they could make some dust.

It took awhile to get everyone “on the bus”. We have found workarounds on everything.

When we polish marble we use dry paper…we simply run it wet and then do final buff with felt and rouge. It works great!

Grinding back or heavy stock removal can also be done wet. We purchased a large center waterfeed angle grinder, it grinds through stone like a hot knife through butter.

(Insert photo 5)

We modified all of our electric angle grinders. They now have water attachments. We run them off GFIs and use electrical tape to seal the connection. No one has ever been shocked.

(Insert photo 6)

There are other benefits you will quickly notice after you go wet.

- Tooling and tools last much longer

- Things go faster wet

- The time to decontaminate the shop is cut in half.

- Everything looks much more professional with out a layer of dust on it.

- OSHA is happier

RESINATED SLABS

We are finding that we (and our customers) really like resinated slabs. It is all we pruchase for our in-house inventory. The major drawback is that occasionaly the resin process darkens the surface of the stone leaving a you with a finished edge that does not match the color of the surface.

This problem is solved by using a good color enhancing sealer. We like Tenax Ager and Aquamix Enrich and Seal. These are not your “normal” enhancers. If you put a little in the bottom of a glass and come back after the solvent evaporates and you will find a hard “acrylic” looking product. This stuff soaks into the stone and stays there.

Most of the time we polish the stone, dry and warm it, apply the sealer, wait a few minutes, wipe off and the problem is solved.

On some stones (Succuro and the like) we stop polishing at 800 grit and execute the sealing process. Wait a couple of hours and continue polishing.

WRITING ON STONE

I have seen many methods of tracing templates and writing on stone. Tape and pencil, grease pen, and paint markers. We like to use a Pentle Presto white out pen.

(Insert photo 7)

It leaves a clean white line that is easy to see and is very consistent. To remove the lines we use a razor blade. If there is a shadow we use a little acetone.

This technique has some drawbacks. It can stain certain limestones and others so use care and test the stone before you write with it. You will quickly learn which stones to avoid using this method on (resort to tape and pencil)

PROTECTING THE SLAB

Having visited many shops I have noticed a dozen different ways to protect the face of the slab when it is flipped. Carpet, wood, formica, foam rubber etc.

The most effective thing we have found is Pasco Pan Liner. It comes in 5’ and 6’ high 100’ long rolls. Our tiles guys use it to build shower pans.

(insert photo 8)

Simply roll the stuff out on the table, hose off and lay your piece. It slides easily and does a great job protecting the slab from small scratches. Nothing sticks to the the pasco and it lasts forever.

We make custom shapes and roll them up and put them away when we are done.

If you have any specific questions about methods and techniques go to www.stoneadvice.com, log into the forum and ask your question. If you have a great idea and would like to share it with others, let me know and I will help get the word out. I will try to respond to questions and suggestions in timely manner.

Check back next month and we will have another article to help you fabricate like a pro!

Tips For the Trades: SolidSurface Magazine

Saturday, June 25th, 2005

Heya all! I just got my subscription to this publication. It is outstanding and has good information for fabricators!

The subscription $25 clams per year…a good investment!

Link:

www.solidsurfacemagazine.com

Check it out…they also have a newsletter.

TIPS: Making Diamond Blades True and Sharp

Tuesday, April 5th, 2005

I know a little about this topic…our shop consumes about 15 5" Turbo blades, at least 1 10" tile blade and 1/2 of a 14" bridge saw blade PER MONTH!

Blades go out of round or get dull for many different reasons…why…not important..you cant do much about it…it happens. (happens less with softer matrix and more with a hard…eg porcelain blade.)

Most folks in the biz know that running the blade thru concrete, carburundum or similar medium will de-glaze and sharpen a blade…this method does not do much for solving the out-o-round issue…you simply wind up with a sharp blade that cuts a little better. Remember an out of round blade will only be cutting at 50% or so if its out of round.

Another common issue is the face of the blade will become shaped like a bullet…this can cause the blade to "travel" as they cut. Diamonds grind there way through stone & tile.

Ever notice that a new blade always cuts better when it is new? Why? The face of the blade is square and the "grinding action" simply works better.

This is how we rectify out-of-round and bullet leading edge shaped blades:

1. Put on some serious eye protection!

2. Get a variable speed grinder with a 120 grit (or so) carburndum stone..go visit a slab shop, they can show you what I am talking about we call em "stones" or "big wheels" (see if they can give you one that is mostly used up…they are alot smaller than a new one)

SAFETY NOTE: Stones have a lower safe RPM than most grinders! DO NOT exceed safe rpms…the damn things can blow up!!!!

3. Turn the water off on your saw and start it up.

4. Take the grinder with the wheel and hold it ninety degrees to the face of the blade. If your blade is out of round the tool will bounce like mad at first. Be smooth and steady. You will find it interesting if you stop after a few seconds and closely examine the blade. Part of it will start to square up and the other part will still look like a bullet. You will also notice pronounced comets on the newly exposed diamonds…those babies are ready to cut some stone! Keep grinding until the entire face of the blade is square and true. You now have a blade that will perform at its best. We rectify blades on a regular basis….they don't last as long…but who gives a damn about that?

To dress turbos…do they same process…put a grinder blade on your 10000 rpm grinder and have some one hold it steady and run it 90 degrees to the face…same system different tool.

I hope you have found this helpful…It really does work amazingly well.

BE SAFE!! PLEASE WEAR SAFETY GEAR..I WAS DOING THIS AND HAD TO GO TO A HOSPITAL TO REMOVE A PIECE OF CARBUNDUM OUT OF MY EYE..THAT SUCKED! WEAR YOUR EYE GEAR OR DON'T TRY THIS…NO JOKE! dont forget the dust mask…and be sure to decontaminate your equpment…carburundum grit will scratch about anything.

Mark Lauzon

www.stoneadvice.com

slab fabricator heaven

OH! one more thing…you can corrrect a chattering stone with a turbo blade on a grinder…same process…sharp true blade and a non chattering stone at the same time!

how the hell does one spell carburundum correctly?

TIPS: Make use of free resources

Wednesday, March 16th, 2005

Sometimes in life the best thing are free!

Stone World & Stone Business maginzine are excellent resources that anyone can receive for free.

Learn about new tools, techniques, and read interesting stuff about our industry.

The information will keep you current and up to date on trends in the industry!

We want to make it easy for you to access quality information, click on the links below and subcribe today.

Stone World Magazine: http://www.stoneworld.com

Stone Business Magazine: http://www.stonebusiness.net/subscribe.html

I hope you take the time to subscribe…you will not regret it…best deal in the industry!

Thanks for stopping by!

Mark Lauzon

Stone Cutter

TIPS: How to laminate like a Pro

Tuesday, March 8th, 2005

COMING SOON!

How to laminate 2cm & 3cm granite…the right way

Mark Lauzon

Stone Cutter

TIPS: Leadership In the Fab Shop

Monday, February 28th, 2005

Leadership in the Fabrication Shop

by Mark Lauzon

I participate in many “trades” forums, and one question arises time and time again. How do we find and retain quality employees?

As owners of companies we deal with this challenge on a regular basis.

Some of our competitors pay their employees under the table. They are able to do work cheaper than legitimate companies. This creates downward pricing pressure making it difficult to offer a decent wage for our employees, not to mention benefits.  Examine why an employee comes to work. The answer is self-evident: “I need money, boss!” The question that merits closer examination is: why does the employee stay? What keeps that person happy, productive and enthusiastic about working?

If you could answer that question with one word, the correct answer would not be money, the answer would be leadership.

Leading your employees and building pride and trust will prove much more profitable than micro-managing unmotivated workers.

It all starts the day you hire the employee. When we hire a fabricator (greenhorn), my partner, the shop foreman and I all sit down with the new employee. We set expectations, discuss pay and explain the performance expected to reach the next pay level.

Building trust with your worker begins with communication. Conveying sincere interest in his future is paramount. Always set an objective goal as it gives the worker something to strive for.  When I start training and orientation I strive to turn the new worker into a Full Spectrum Fabricator. Often in shops, one guy is the sawer, one or two template, a couple of ‘em know how to install. This “specialization,” while the easiest to manage, can prove problematic for your business in the long run.

Too much specialization stymies professional growth and can result in stagnation and boredom. A bored employee will demand more money to remain content.

When a specialist calls in sick, it creates chaos. Who can pick up the slack? A cross-trained fabricator can step up to the plate and continue the task. A Full Spectrum Fabricator is confident and proud of his skill sets. He is able to perform various tasks on demand.  How do we find quality employees? We build ‘em from scratch!

If I can schedule it…I like to take my new employee on a short road trip to our biggest slab supplier. While driving, I get a chance to do some one-on-one counseling. I try to impart my love of the trade onto the new worker.

Once we arrive, I introduce the new worker to my supplier. He will usually tell my new guy how lucky he is to be working at my shop. We tour the warehouse and explain the difference between marble, granite and the many types of natural stone. I let him appreciate the multitude of colors and styles of stone. They are always impressed.

Having covered some basics on building a quality Full Spectrum Fabricator, how do we keep ‘em from leaving?  Money is not the answer. In the past, I’ve left several well paying jobs and can tell you that money is but a small aspect one should consider when deciding to leave a job. Pursue things you love and the money will find you. Pursue money and you will find a job.

Leadership, trust, mentoring, and delegation of responsibility are the keys to retaining quality employees.

When I walk the shop floor with my customers, I always make a point to stop one of my fabricators and introduce them to the clients.  I tell the client that “Joe” is one of the best fabricators in the shop, and he will be polishing the edgework on their kitchen. Building the self esteem of your workers: one of the simplest and most powerful things you can do as a leader.

I encourage my shop foreman and installation foreman to tell the guys they are the best in the business. My partner and I always tell our crews that no one can touch our quality and scheduling. Getting your employees to believe they are the best: the first step in creating that reality.

We do not have a formal incentive program in our shop. If we have a really good month we kick back a little extra cash. We have purchased ipods, Gerber knives, and have taken our crew to the range to go shooting or paintballing. Sometimes we simply shut down the shop and BBQ. Unexpected perks seem to have a positive impact that is worth more the the cost of the perk itself.

Next, we send the new fabricator to the field. I feel it is important that the fabricator understands how templates are made, seams are placed and (generally) what all the notes and shorthand mean.

When an employee meets the customers while making templates, they will be able to see and feel the expectation that the customer has. The employee begins to understand the expectations that a shop must fulfill for its customers. What that employee is learning is important and he knows it!

After templating enough houses to get a feel for what proper procedure is, we move on to installation. The purpose of bringing the new guy along on installs is threefold.

One, he learns some of the basic material handling skills and the fundamentals of a good installation.

Two, he understands the importance of attention to detail, fit and finish, and why the quality of the edge work is critical.

Three, he discovers the joy and exhilaration the customer experiences when the job is done correctly and exceeds their expectations. What we do is important to someone and our work has meaning.  Learning to polish granite, executing advance stoneworking tasks and learning the “ropes” in a fabrication shop can be frustrating. When learning to polish, the new employee is told over and over again that they don’t have “it” down yet. That is normal…what makes it bearable is the fact they have met customers and understand the importance of what they are learning.

When the time comes to discipline an employee I try (whenever possible) to do it one-on-one. If I can, I will take the employee outside the shop and counsel him. It is important to keep negativity outside of the work area.

Delegate responsibility and avoid micro-management. Every employee should have tasks which he must accomplish and be held accountable for the results. Individual responsibility is the key to personal growth.

Never ask an employee to do something you would not be willing to do yourself. If an install crew is out late we always have an owner or foreman waiting for their return at the shop . As an owner, I make a point of fabricating/polishing on the shop floor a least a couple of times per month. It gives me credibility in their eyes. When we do shop clean up & maintenance…everyone participates.

Knowing your employees and looking out for their welfare, building self esteem and teamwork, showing respect for the individual and his work enable you to set the foundation for a lasting, mutually profitable relationship…not just another job.

YOU CAN READ THIS ARTICLE IN STONE BUSINESS MAGIZINE

Thanks for visiting

Mark

TIPS: Top polishing seams

Thursday, February 24th, 2005

You cant be serious! Mark, you mean to tell me you top-polish every seam?

YUP!

It takes 10-15 mins…and it makes the job perfect!

It takes alot of practice to master! At first it will take longer.

The only tools you need to perform this task are:

Matabo 125 quick variable speed polisher

Alpha turbo backer

200 grit alpha turbo

500 grit alpha turbo

1000 grit alpha turbo

4" Alpha hard backer

1000 grit alpha resin pad (not ex)

white & black buff (ya buy Alpha, they are the best we have found)

(occasionaly…seldom…use a little polsihing powder)

Roll of masking tape

Pentel Presto White out pen

Note1: when you get your new turbos you MUST index them.

Make a mark on the turbo holder and the turbo…run them on the back of some black absolute until the turbos no longer chatter. Put them on the same way everytime…do not attempt to top polish with a chattering turbo!

Note 2: Top polsihing is no substitute for a crappy install you MUST have your counter flat and true or you will create optical distortions when you are done.

Step one: Scrape down seams with razor blades, make a tape damn, make some reference lines with a presto white out pen

Step Two: Set the speed on the Matabo between 1-2 (kinda slow) Start with 200 grit use a small amount of water and work the polisher in little figure 8s until you mill the seam down. The white out line give you a reference.

Do not go hog wild you can easily over do this. Once lines start going away you are getting close…use you fingers to feel the seam and work until lippage is removed most of the way.

We are done with the 200! Note the shiny spot on the right…that is the natual bow in the material…we are going to fix that! Now we switch to the 500 grit turbo to take the seam all the way! Same procedure as 200 grit. (we are talking about microns of difference…the human finger can feel this!)

We are now done with the 500. It is critical to dry and examine your work area closely. Make certain you have removed all 200 grit scratches with the 500. The 1000 grit will not remove them. (there is nothing more annoying than finishing a seam and finding a 200 grit scratch that was missed)

Repeat the procedure with the 1000 grit turbo…take your time and use plenty of water.

You are done with the turbos! This next part is the killer trick! SWITCH to a hard backer and do the 1000 grit with a normal amount of water and work the area.

Note: as you move from one grit to the next make the work area a little bigger

After you have worked the whole area wet start to polsih wet to dry. This is an art. You make a small puddle and dip into it and run to dry…the stone will start to shine.

Set the speed to 2 on the matabo.

WOW! Time to bring out the BLING BLING! Switch to your buff pad (note alpha works the best) and work wet to dry…dont use much water. The tool will start to get real hot! We allways use two polsihers but it can be done with one.

Sometimes you may need to sprinkle a little powder to get the polish to pop…we rarely use powder and when we do the amount is miniscule!

Work it wet to dry…trust me, you dont need 2000 or 3000 grit those steps are a waste of time.

BANG! Time to watch your customers surprise when he or she realizes that you can NOT feel the seam. You are a HERO!

When you are done inspect the area…use a good enhancing sealer (we like AquaMix Enrich & Seal) This will color correct any issues that may arrise from the procedure when polishing resinated or dark slabs.

This simple process has solidified our company as a High End Custom Operation!We make more money and get more referals.

I hope you take the time to learn this skill. Eventually, it will become the standard. Feel free to visit my website http://www.stoneworks.cc and try to find a seam in the pictures.

If you have any questions…post them in the forum…I may make a video one day.

I hope you found this helpful!

Warmest Regards and Happy Fabricating!

Mark Lauzon

Stone Cutter